Lake Tahoe Basin: Rubicon Point to Emerald Bay

Lake Tahoe

I only started hiking regularly in April of 2006. This was my last hike of that first summer season. Shortly after this, I made to trip to Norway and Sweden, and when I came back, I broke my toe and stayed off the hiking trail for several weeks.

It's the hike I had planned to do when I was turned away from D.L. Bliss State Park because it had already reached capacity. That day I made a shorter hike to the same destinations. This time I was going on a weekday shortly after Labor Day--when the crowds have dwindled greatly, but Lake Tahoe is still in its prime. My friend Erik joined me.

We drove to D.L. Bliss State Park, paid our entrance fee, and parked by the trailhead. The trail began close to the water's edge horizontally, but well above it vertically.

As we set out, we had great views of Lake Tahoe, although it was a disappointingly hazy day (because of a forest fire a good distance away). The trail climbed quite a bit and went away from Lake Tahoe, and we were in forest. But then we descended all the way to the water's edge, and soon came to the point I had stopped at on the aforementioned hike from the opposite direction. The views of the lake from this point, just northwest of Emerald Point, are quite spectacular.





Then I was back on familiar trail. The trail cuts off the tip of Emerald Point through the forest and arrives at the shore of Emerald Bay, with its views of the emerald water, Fannette Island, and the ferry taking people out to the island's teahouse. The trail along the north side of Emerald Bay stays close to the water, and there are frequently ladders down to the water, where people can pull in their boats and climb up to the trail.

We passed the boat-in camp and then got to the area with all the people--the beach near Vikingsholm and the spur trail to Lower Eagle Falls. We went from dirt trail to paved paths. We made our way up to see Lower Eagle Falls first, then came back to take pictures all around Vikingsholm (but we did not bring money to pay for the tour). Then we headed to the beach.

California Hiking said that the two weeks after Labor Day are a great time to go swimming here, when the water is as warm as it gets all year, and the crowds are down. So we were in swimming trunks, ready to go in the water. Erik swam quite a bit. I was in and out briefly. Too cold for me. I preferred to lie in the sun on the beach.


Beach Goers

I don't remember if it was before or after this (I suspect before) that we stopped at a picnic table to eat lunch. There an aggressive chipmunk went after my sandwich. Erik picked it up to get it away from the chipmunk, but the determined chipmunk held on. I was trying to quickly take some photos, but didn't get the flash turned off. We held the chipmunk off, but letting our guard down a moment later it made off with the remainder of the sandwich.







Then it was back on the trail for an uneventful return to the car. Back at the trailhead, we had the benefits of having paid to enter a state park--flush toilets and sinks with running water. So much nicer than the smelly pit toilets at forest service campgrounds.

Hike Summary

Date: 12 September 2006
Trailhead: Rubicon Point
Approximate distance: 9 miles

Lake Tahoe Basin: Eagle Point to Emerald Point

Secluded Cove

My plan on this day was to hike from D.L. Bliss State Park along Rubicon Trail on the western edge of Lake Tahoe south to Emerald Bay, Vikingsholm, and Lower Eagle Falls. But even though it was a Thursday, D.L. Bliss State Park had already hit its limit for visitors for the day, and I was directed to Eagle Point Campground, on the southern side of Emerald Bay.

I parked at Eagle Point and headed off in the direction of the trail. I saw a small use trail leading from a picnic table that I thought was a shortcut to the main trail. I followed it, and soon found myself working my way through trees and undergrowth down the side of a slope. I struggled a ways through this before coming out on a clear trail.

I was starting at the point on the southern side of the mouth to Emerald Bay and was hiking west to the innermost part of the bay. I had glimpses of the emerald water and Fannette Island to the north as I hiked along, gradually dropping in elevation.


View of Emerald Bay and Fannette Island

As I got close to the innermost part of the bay, I started encountering people. I crossed a bridge over a creek and hit a junction with the short spur to Lower Eagle Falls, which I took. It's a steep (but brief) climb up to an overlook of the falls. There were lots of people here, and plenty of evidence of where people had left the trail for closer views of the falls. Then I dropped back down to the trail and continued to the north, having already reached the westernmost portion of trail.


Lower Eagle Falls

There I ran into large crowds of people who were parked in a lot above off of CA 89 and had come down to use the beach and visit Vikingsholm. I certainly looked out of place with my hiking boots on and my backpack filled for an all-day hike around people in swimsuits and flip-flops. There were several boats at the pier.


Vikingsholm

But it wasn't long before I was away from the crowds. Hiking east along the north shore of the bay I was much closer to the water, and my view of the bay was not obscured by trees as often as it had been on the south side. At one point I passed through a campground--a boat-in campground.

As I got close to Emerald Point, the trail veered north away from the water. My map showed the trail splitting two ways, with one continuing on along the water's edge around Emerald Point, and the other cutting across farther inland. I figured I would take the latter way out, since it was the only path I saw, and take the other way back for variety.

At one point the trail here passed through the middle of a boulder that was split in two with just enough room for a person to squeeze through.


Narrow Passage

Finally I came out next to the water along the shore north of Emerald Bay. I passed one particularly gorgeous cove that had one boat anchored in it and a lovely beach. What a place to spend a vacation (picture at the beginning of this account).

When I reached a point with an expansive view of the lake and shore with some nice boulders, I stopped to eat my sandwich. As I was sitting there eating, several Steller's jays flew in and landed on rocks around me. I was able to get some good close-up shots.


Stopping Point


Steller's Jay

Then I returned. I tried to find a way out to the end of Emerald Point, but never did succeed. So I ended up just passing through everything I had seen earlier.

Hike Summary
Date: 27 July 2006
Trailhead: Eagle Point Campground

Lake Tahoe Basin: Eagle Falls to Velma Lakes Area

Unnamed Pond

The Velma Lakes are a popular destination for hikers into the Desolation Wilderness coming from Lake Tahoe. The two trailheads that offer easiest access to these lakes are both along CA 89 on the west shore of Lake Tahoe, at Bayview Campground and at the parking lot for the short hike (1000 feet) to Upper Eagle Falls just above Emerald Bay on Lake Tahoe's western shore.

I made the hike to Middle Velma Lake in 2006 from Bay View Campground. The advantages of starting there are that it's easier to find a parking spot, you don't have to pay for parking (it's $3 at Eagle Falls), the climb is on an easier surface (mostly dirt), and early on there are some nice views of Lake Tahoe and Emerald Bay..

But this year I chose to approach the area via Eagle Falls, in order to see Eagle Falls and Eagle Lake. This route is more direct, but a lot rockier. I wanted a bigger challenge this year also, so I planned to add a lot onto my hike. Last year it was just Middle Velma Lake. This year I planned to visit 6 lakes, Eagle, Dicks, Fontanillis, Upper Velma, Middle Velma, and Lower Velma Lakes. It was an ambitious plan. I didn't end up making it to the last two lakes, but I still experienced an all-day, butt-kicker of a hike.

As I hit the road, I heard the traffic report on an overturned 18-wheeler on westbound I-80 between West Sacramento and Davis that had traffic backed up through downtown Sacramento. I was trying to get on eastbound 50, but as I came up onto Watt from American River Drive, my way was blocked by all the traffic backed up waiting to get on westbound 50. So I just exited on La Riviera and headed to another freeway entrance, where I had no problem. I've got a dozen different ways to get to anywhere in the area, and am ready to adjust my route according to the traffic situation at hand.

As I headed out on 50, past Folsom, El Dorado Hills, Cameron Park, and Shingle Springs I saw the usual blight of uniform, low-density, tract housing. I can certainly understand why someone would want to live in the foothills, even if they work in Sacramento. But I don't understand why people want to live in such uniform tract housing, going to major chain stores and restaurants, and obliterating all local identity. Tract housing is quite uniform in class, and people who live in such generic communities seem to identify more with people similarly isolated in soulless communities around the country, united by their cable and satellite television channels, rather than having a connection to the people around them, of all class levels, and the history of the land around them.

That's probably not a fair characterization of the people who live there, but when I was driving by I was upset over the news I had read in the Sacramento Bee about the unanimous decision by Placer County supervisors to approve the building of 14,000 low-density housing units in defiance of the regional growth plan approved by the Sacramento Area Council of Governments in 2004. As I got to less suburban Placerville and beyond, my spirits lifted.

The parking lot for Eagle Falls had a few open spots when I arrived, which was a lucky thing. I filled out my parking permit and paid my $3, and also filled out my Desolation Wilderness permit, but I left it in the car. I hiked up to Eagle Falls before realizing I had forgotten it, and returned to the car. The lot was full by then. A woman looking for a parking spot asked me if I was leaving. It would be about 7 hours before I left.

It's a steep climb, but only 1000 feet to Upper Eagle Falls, which was signed "Eagle Falls." But there's also the more impressive Lower Eagle Falls, below, and on the other side of the highway. There's a bridge across the top of the upper falls, and then just 500 feet later I reached the Desolation Wilderness boundary.

This has to be one of the most popular hikes into the Desolation Wilderness, with most people stopping at Eagle Lake, just 1 mile from the trailhead. It's a steep climb, but easy enough if you pace yourself, and the lake is gorgeous. Horsetail Falls also attracts lots of tourists who spot it off US 50, but because it can be a dangerous hike for novices, the Forest Service does not make permits available at the trailhead. You have to have planned ahead to hike all the way to those falls.


Eagle Lake

Eagle Lake, surrounded by towering granite cliffs, was a treat, and there were a good number of people there on a Thursday, around noon. In the afternoon on a weekend it would probably be overrun.

I didn't stay long, but continued up the trail. From Eagle Lake the trail rises on a ledge with fantastic views of the lake from above. After a while it turns into a forest and I lost my views, but gained some shade. It briefly dips to cross a creek that might dry up later in the year, then continues climbing. The trail comes out into an open granitic terrain where cairns and rows of rocks on either side indicate the trail. At one point the trail seemed to go several directions, but I think they all ended up at the same point.


Just Above Eagle Lake

Soon after, there's a brief drop, and then I was traveling along a ledge of a steep cliff, with a pond covered with lily pads at the bottom. On all sides of the canyon rose walls of granite. There's no problem with the footing here, but I didn't rush along, as a trip could have had disastrous consequences.

The trail rose up through some bushy areas, and across more granite, and suddenly I was familiar with my terrain. I was right at the junction with the trail coming from Bayview Campground, which I had hiked up the previous year. It was around 2.6 miles and 1620 feet of elevation gain to reach this junction.

I followed the familiar trail up and down until it split, left to Dicks Lake, right to Middle Velma Lake. Last year I went right; this year I went left. I began a short descent and arrived at a beautiful body of water in a short time. I assumed it was Dicks Lake. I stopped and took pictures, and then continued on the trail. I started climbing a lot towards the west. I knew it was a short distance between Dicks Lake and Fontanillis Lake, without much elevation gain. So I started checking my map and compass.


Tiger Lilies

I couldn't make sense of things. I could see from up on the slope Upper Velma Lake to the north, but couldn't figure out what trail I was on. It was a clear trail though, one which had been constructed, and couldn't be new (I don't think they would make improved trails in a designated wilderness area today). I was close to the top of my climb, and should have continued, but I didn't; I went back down to the body of water.

I now speculated that it was Fontanillis Lake and that I had missed the short spur to Dicks Lake. But soon that didn't seem to make sense either. I had been hearing people for a while coming from the direction I had just returned from, so I asked them when they reached me.

Nothing would have made sense of the situation until I was disabused of the premise upon which I was basing everything. I had not yet reached Dicks Lake. This picturesque body of water I had admired was just an unnamed pond.

For the second time that day, I started huffing and puffing back up a climb I had already made. This was a clear trail that had been helpfully signed, so I shouldn't have had to do that.

I passed the junction with the trail to Dicks Pass, and went on to Dicks Lake, off a short spur. I didn't stay long, but headed onto Fontanillis Lake. At this point, the flaw of my 6-lake route became obvious. It would be better to take 6 hikes, one to each lake, and spend some time at each one. Maybe I could bring a book and my goggles for swimming. At this point I was checking my watch and my map, and revising plans.


Dicks Lake

The trail approaching Fontanillis Lake from Dicks Lake gave me good views of the lake, then headed away from it. This is because there is no easy shore access from the south end of the lake, just high granite cliffs. The trail doesn't approach the shore until you get to the northern portion of the lake.


Fontanillis Lake

At that point, I had to rock hop the outlet creek from Fontanillis. My original plan had been to take a shortcut from Fontanillis Lake to Upper Velma Lake. It looked on the map like following the main trail north to a junction, then heading east, then heading south again to Upper Velma Lake would be about 2.3-2.5 miles. It looked like it was about .3 miles cross country following the creek that flows out of Fontanillis straight down into Upper Velma Lake.


Upper Velma Lake from Just Above Fontanillis Lake

Before crossing the creek, I climbed up above to survey the situation. I could see the full flow of the creek down the granite into Upper Velma Lake. I decided to go for it. (Disclaimer: my blog is not meant to be a trail guide. Do not take this as advice on how to hike this area, or assume that it is safe because I survived. Stay on the trail.)

As I headed down, I kept thinking, "I hope I don't hit an obstacle that blocks my path, because I don't want to climb up all this granite again." It got steep in portions, and I had to sit down to lower myself a couple of times, but I made it, and quickly found the trail.


Upper Velma Lake

I had time to make it to Middle Velma Lake, at least--at this point it wasn't far off. I might have been able to make it to Lower Velma Lake as well. But I figured I would save those for a more leisurely trip into the area with my friend Erik in the future. Instead, I headed back.

I came down to a creek crossing I had a little difficulty with the year before, but flew across this time. Then I started climbing. I didn't remember the climb back from here as being so long or as having so much elevation to gain from last year's experience. Of course, I hadn't tired myself out with that much climbing prior to the return last year.

By the time I got to the junction that splits the Bayview Trail from the trail to Eagle Lake, I was worn out. It was almost all downhill from there, but my knees and feet had had enough, and I had to be careful on the way down to use my tired muscles rather than punish my tendons and ligaments further. I started counting down the distance I had remaining: Eagle Lake meant 1 mile remained. The Desolation Wilderness sign meant 1500 feet remained. Eagle Falls meant only 1000 feet to go.


On the Descent

I stopped at Eagle Falls, now entirely in shade, to get a long exposure using a neutral density filter and my Gorillapod. Finally, I made it back to the now nearly empty parking lot, still with plenty of time to get over the mountains before it got dark.


Eagle Falls

Hike Summary

Date: 19 July 2007
Trailhead: Eagle Falls
Approximate distance: 11.5 miles

Lake Tahoe Basin: Ellis Peak & Ellis Lake

Ellis Lake

Part of the adventure of this hike was just finding the trailhead. My friend Eric and I drove east on I-80 to Truckee, then headed south to Tahoe City on CA-89. In Tahoe City we turned right at the light to continue following CA-89 down the west shore of Lake Tahoe. It's a beautiful drive, with views of the mountains and Donner Lake from I-80, views of the Truckee River and people rafting down it down CA-89 to Tahoe City, and then views of Lake Tahoe farther down.

We were looking for Barker Pass Road, to take to the parking lot and trailhead at Barker Pass. But we never did see any sign visible from CA-89 for that road. After going past it a couple of times, we checked the map yet again. Erik recognized the Kaspian picnic area right near the road as something he had seen a sign for, and we were able to find the road based on that. I believe the sign we could see from CA-89 also said Blackwood Canyon. But it was only after turning onto the road that we were able to see a National Forest Service sign that indicated it was Barker Pass Road.

At one point the road splits, with a dirt road continuing ahead directly east, and the paved road curving around south, crossing a creek, and then heading east again. A sign right in between them unhelpfully told us "Barker Pass Rd." We tried the paved road, then the dirt road, and then returned to the paved road.

The paved road was the right choice. As soon as the pavement ends, you are at the trailhead. There is an area to park up and to the left. There are no facilities.

We headed up the trail through the forest, and were immediately panting. This is a short hike with moderate elevation gain overall, but the climbing portions follow a steep grade that forced us to go slowly and work for good footing.

We climbed through forest until coming out onto an open ridge with many wildflowers. To the west were dramatic views of granite slopes and peaks and a large lake, which from the map I would guess was Hell Hole Reservoir. To the east were jagged cliffs and portions of Lake Tahoe visible in the distance. Unfortunately, the haze made for poor photo opportunities. We could see a large plume of smoke rising over in Nevada, which I assume was responsible for the haze.

The grade on this ridge was easier than that through the forested portion, though we were buffeted by winds that had me holding my hat on. After a while the ridge widened out, and we started and easy descent, which became much steeper when we started to reenter forest.

Once the steep portion of the descent was over, we had an easy stretch, with only slight ups and downs. Towards the end was a small path leading to the left, which we walked past. Soon after we hit a 4WD road with a sign propped against a tree indicating that down it to the left was Ellis Lake, straight ahead on the trail was Ellis Peak, and there was no indication of where the road went to the right.

We went straight ahead and started another steep climb on a trail not shown on my map. It came out at a 4WD road. We headed up it to the left to its end, where it does a small loop for vehicles to turn around. From there California Hiking (2001-2002 edition) said that we should see the peak plainly visible. But I knew from Kevin Gong's hiking website that this is a false summit, and the true one lies beyond it (and I should have told Erik that earlier, as I was ahead of him at this point). What I didn't know is that there is a clear trail that leads to the true summit on the east side of the ridge with great views of Lake Tahoe. I didn't spot the cairn indicating where it started.

Instead, I climbed up to the false summit, then climbed down to start back up the true summit. About midway I ran into the trail. Up at the summit, I had fantastic views of most all of Lake Tahoe, from the north end to the south end. It was also windy again, so much so that I took my hat off and put in in my backpack.


Panorama of Lake Tahoe
(To see this image in a larger size, click on it to be taken to its Flickr page, and from there click on "All Sizes")



Me on Top of Ellis Peak

I stayed standing in the wind until I was sure Erik saw me, and was headed my way, then I dropped down to get out of the wind and eat lunch. Erik joined me, and after we were finished eating we took photos of Lake Tahoe and of Ellis Lake, which lies directly below the peak.

Then we started back on the clear trail, and took it all the way to the 4WD road this time. There was a cairn there, easy to miss a ways off road. To make it easier for future hikers to find, I lined up two separated rows of large rocks heading towards the cairn from the road to indicate the trail.

Then we headed down, leaving the 4WD road where a cairn marked the trail. We went down to the other 4WD road, the one signed for Ellis Lake. On my map, it looked like it was about 1/4 mile away. But California Hiking says that it is only 50 yards off on a short spur, and doesn't mention this 4WD road. After visiting the lovely lake and returning, we were able to piece it together. That trail we passed near the 4WD road on the way out goes about 50 yards to a depression with a small pond at the bottom of it. In a wet year, and/or earlier in the season, there might be enough water there for it to be confused with the lake. One could easily have seen it was not the lake from the true summit, but if you stopped at the false summit, you might not have seen Ellis Lake from above.




At Ellis Lake

Anyhow, I'm glad we figured things out, because we both really enjoyed Ellis Lake, and walked completely around it. Ellis Peak rises directly up from the edge of the lake with sheer cliffs. I jokingly asked Erik if he would like to return to the summit, the short way.

After we returned on the 4WD road to the trail, we had the easy stretch to complete before starting the only real climb on the return. I often push myself while hiking, but we had plenty of time, despite our delay in getting to the trailhead, so I forced myself to go at a slow pace and avoid working up much of a sweat. Once headed back down the steep portion near the trailhead, I could feel it in my knees.

I met a couple just heading up the trail here, who asked if it was a long ways. I asked where they were headed. The man told me that they were told the trail just ended after a ways (I guess it does at Ellis Peak). I told them about the two destinations. I encounter people like this often, who just hike until they feel tired enough to return, not having any idea what lies ahead, what they might be missing, or what they would need to do to be prepared to get there. Nothing wrong with that, I suppose, but I don't think it will ever be my approach.

Hike Summary

Date: 17 July 2007
Approximate distance: 6.5 miles
Links: Kevin Gong's hike report

Lake Tahoe Basin: Bayview Trail to Middle Velma Lake

Middle Velma Lake

To the west high above incredible Emerald Bay of Lake Tahoe is a granite basin filled with pristine mountain lakes in the Desolation Wilderness, three of which are the Velma Lakes, Upper, Middle, and Lower. Two trailheads offer the most ready access to this area: Eagle Falls and Bayview Campground. I undertook the hike via Eagle Falls and Eagle Lake on the Emerald Bay Trail last week. But my first ascent into this area, last year, and my most recent, yesterday, were both on the Bayview Trail from Bayview Campground.

Both trails are steep and rated as strenuous in the book Tahoe Sierra, but I chose the approach via Bayview Trail for my first visit because it is described as being "better graded," and I thought it would be easier. It starts 260 feet higher than the trail to Eagle Falls and Eagle Lake, but, then again, it climbs about 220 higher than that trail before descending to a junction with it. I'd say they are equally as difficult, although the rockiness of Emerald Bay Trail makes it harder on the joints.


Make Your Choice

This hike starts at a sign-in board (permits are required for entering the Desolation Wilderness) right at the day use parking area in Bayview Campground, just off of CA 89, the highway that runs along the western shore of Lake Tahoe. This is also the trailhead for a short (.7 mile) and easy hike to Cascade Falls overlooking Cascade Lake, so there can be quite a few cars in the lot, as there was in my second hike on this trail, with my friend Erik.

The hike begins at 6860 feet with a steep series of switchbacks in wooded terrain. Soon after passing the sign designating the boundary of the Desolation Wilderness, views start opening up of Emerald Bay. There are vistas of more of Lake Tahoe through the trees, but better views lie farther up the trail.


Emerald Bay

At the end of this series of switchbacks, the trail heads away from the views and farther west into the forest. A use trail appears off to the left. This heads to Granite Lake. Staying on the main trail, Granite Lake doesn't come into view until you are already a little above it.

Then starts another grueling climb up a series of switchbacks. There are glimpses of Lake Tahoe, Granite Lake, Cascade Lake, and South Lake Tahoe throughout this climb, but every once in a while there is a gap in the trees that provides a much clearer view.


View of South Lake Tahoe

At the end of this series of switchbacks, the trail once again swings west and away from the views of Lake Tahoe, but there is an area where many people have gone off the trail to the north to catch a glimpse of Eagle Lake surrounded by granite slopes.


Eagle Lake

This part is the easiest of the whole hike, with just modest ups and downs, topping out at around 8440 feet, for 1580 feet of elevation gain in about 2 1/2 miles. Then begins a descent of about 220 feet to the junction with Emerald Bay Trail, signed Eagle Lake.



After this junction begins a down an up portion of .9 miles to the junction with the trail to Dicks Lake. That junction is at the same elevation as the previous one, but there is some climbing and descending to do between them. Off to the south are expansive views of granite mountains.



Then the trail begins a steady descent to a creek at about 7950 feet that must be crossed via rock hopping. I found it a bit of a challenge in 2006. But yesterday, I found it quite simple. Having crossed that creek from the other direction last week, where the easiest crossing is more plainly visible, I knew to leave the trail and go a couple of yards up creek for an easy crossing. I crossed, then set up to film my friend Erik cross. He saw me over to the left, but didn't look for a crossing near me. He just went straight across where the trail ran into the creek--a much more difficult route. I don't know that I would have been able to make it across that way, and Erik nearly didn't, having to flail his arms near the end to keep his balance. And yes, the whole time I just stood there quietly filming him.



Erik Rock Hops the Hard Way from tspauld and Vimeo.

In 2006 I just went straight on past the junctions for trails to Upper Velma and Fontanillis Lakes to the west shore of Middle Velma Lake, just off the Pacific Crest Trail. But yesterday I wanted to make it to Lower Velma Lake as well, to which there is no official trail. From the topographic map it was clear that this would mean quite a bit of descent and then a climb back up on the return, so I offered Erik the choice of coming with me, or just going on to Middle Velma Lake where I would meet him. He chose the latter. I showed him the map and told him to pass the two trail junctions before arriving at Middle Velma Lake, and that I would meet him there.

I started heading down parallel to the creek, which the maps shows flowing into Lower Velma Lake. As soon as I could see the lake, I veered off toward it, and ended up on the edge of a cliff about 40 feet above it. I didn't see suitable areas on shore to hang out and I wasn't planning to hang out there anyhow, so I just took pictures from up on the cliff before starting back up.


Lower Velma Lake

I ended up back on the trail just a bit farther along than the creek crossing. I headed on towards Middle Velma Lake. It was only then that I was reminded that the trail doesn't really go to Middle Velma Lake, it just skirts around it to the south and west. At some point I just had to go off trail--there are many faint use trails, some marked with cairns--to get to the lake. I chose one and ended up about where I had been last year.

The book mentions that the lakeshore can get crowded, but last year there were just 2 other people there, although I did find evidence of people having camped there, like an old tube of toothpaste. This year I just saw a family of 4 camping nearby who said hello to me.

At the water's edge, I searched the shores for Erik. He could have chosen anywhere to get over to the lake, or kept going thinking that the trail would eventually arrive at the lake. I didn't call out for him as I didn't want to disturb the family.


Middle Velma Lake

He had talked of lingering by the creek a while, so I started heading back thinking I might find him there, and that I could just wait for him there in case I didn't find him, as he would have to return that way eventually to get back to the car. But I soon encountered him. He had forgotten which Velma Lake he was supposed to go to, and headed to Upper Velma Lake. Not having passed a junction for Fontanillis Lake, he knew he had erred, and returned. It's a lucky thing I didn't get back past the junction with the trail to Upper Velma Lake before he had gotten back to the main trail, or we would have missed each other.

At the point I met him we just wandered across the granite rocks to the lake's edge. After taking some pictures, we went swimming out to a couple of the myriad granite rock islands in the lake. It wasn't the best place for it--the rock islands were tiny, unlike the larger ones with nice granite slabs to lie on a little farther north. But we didn't have much time to spare and couldn't be picky.

I swam out to two, and got an inconsequential cut on my foot on some of the jagged rocks underwater near the second island, and then swam back. Erik went on to a larger third island while I dried out on the granite in the sun.

Then we made our return. We made good time, despite having to do some climbing on the way back before the long final descent. That descent we took quite rapidly--much faster than would be possible on rocky Emerald Bay Trail. We got back to the car 7 hours after having headed out.


Emerald Bay on the Return Trip

Hike Summary

Dates: 7 September 2006 & 25 July 2007
Trailhead: Bayview Campground
Approximate distances: 11 miles & 12 miles